The Audemars Piguet Jules Chronograph, initially launched at SIHH 2009 under the rather uninspired moniker "Self-winding Chronograph," represents a significant milestone in the brand's history. It marked the debut of Audemars Piguet's first in-house-made chronograph movement, a feat that significantly elevated its horological standing. While the name might have lacked flair, the watch itself is a compelling blend of classic elegance and sophisticated functionality, deserving of a thorough examination. This review will delve into its design, movement, performance, and place within the broader Audemars Piguet (AP) catalogue, touching upon related models and pricing.
Design and Aesthetics:
The Jules Chronograph eschews the sporty, immediately recognizable design language of the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore lines. Instead, it embraces a more understated, classically elegant aesthetic. The case, typically available in various sizes and materials (ranging from stainless steel to precious metals like rose gold and platinum), is characterized by its refined proportions and subtle detailing. The lugs are smoothly integrated into the case, creating a harmonious flow. The dial, often presented in a clean, uncluttered layout, showcases the chronograph functions with clarity and precision. Sub-dials for the seconds, 30-minute counter, and 12-hour counter are typically arranged in a balanced configuration, enhancing the watch's overall symmetry.
Depending on the specific model and year of production, variations in dial color (ranging from classic white or silver to more contemporary shades) and hand styles can be found. However, the overarching design philosophy remains consistent: a timeless elegance that transcends fleeting trends. The watch is equally at home in a formal setting as it is with more casual attire, making it a versatile piece for the discerning collector. The integration of the chronograph pushers is seamless, adding to the watch's overall refined appearance. The crown, usually subtly engraved with the AP logo, is well-proportioned and easy to operate. The sapphire crystal, providing excellent protection and clarity, allows for an unobstructed view of the meticulously finished dial and hands.
Movement: The Heart of the Jules Chronograph
The real story behind the Jules Chronograph lies within its movement. This was, as previously mentioned, AP's first in-house-made automatic chronograph caliber. This marked a significant moment for the brand, demonstrating its commitment to vertical integration and its mastery of complex watchmaking. The specific caliber varies slightly depending on the year and model, but generally, these movements are known for their robust construction, accuracy, and impressive power reserve. The intricate finishing, visible through the exhibition caseback (on many models), is a testament to Audemars Piguet's commitment to high-end watchmaking traditions. Features like Côtes de Genève, perlage, and polished bevels adorn the movement components, showcasing the skill and dedication of the watchmakers. The automatic winding mechanism is efficient and reliable, ensuring consistent power delivery.
Performance and Functionality:
The Jules Chronograph offers a seamless blend of form and function. The chronograph mechanism is responsive and precise, with a smooth start, stop, and reset action. The date function, often integrated into the dial, is easily adjusted. The power reserve is generally substantial, providing ample wearing time before requiring winding. The accuracy of the movement is typically within COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) chronometer standards, guaranteeing high precision. The water resistance, while not designed for extreme underwater activities, is sufficient for everyday wear and incidental splashes.
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